Hot weather can be fatal to a Bulldog, they don’t even need to be 
moving about in it to succumb to the heat.
Please make sure that any exercise is given early in the morning or late in the evening, 
don’t be tempted to go for a nice Sunday afternoon stroll when it is very sunny or hot.
Also please don’t allow your Bulldog to layout in the sun for long periods, 
they do not know when they have had enough and it doesn’t take long for their panting to become out of control.
 
 

It is essential that we prevent problems from too much sun or heat.
Do not leave your dog in an enclosed car in the summertime.
Provide shade at all times. 
Exercise should be kept at the dog's pace, not necessarily your own. 
There are several ways of keeping down heat with Bulldogs: wet towel 
under your dog's toes, ice cubes in the drinking water, sponging off your dog, lemon juice.
All short-nosed breeds should be constantly watched to see that they are 
breathing easily and that they are taking in enough water to prevent dehydration. 
Far too many dogs are lost from dehydration, heat or sun stroke and 
suffocation, when a few precautions could have been taken to prevent death.

Bulldogs can overheat quickly because of the shape of their throats, 
their soft palates are almost always too long and when they get very hot they 
cannot pant sufficiently to keep their body temperature down, their attempts to 
pant quickly cause the production of foam which in turn blocks the throat and 
causes laboured breathing and eventually they will begin to roar as they try to 
breath through the blockage. 
Lemon juice squeezed directly
into the back of the mouth is helpful in cutting it, or use your fingers to scoop it out. 
Always keep the throat clear. Brain damage or death may result if a 
Bulldog is stricken, so watch your Bulldog carefully.
 
 

Stages of overheating:
- Your bulldog will begin to "heave" as he pants
- Your bulldog will begin to "roar" - best described as sounding like severe asthma
- He will begin to look tired and distressed
- His tongue will be very floppy and very red in colour
- His body temperature will rise (normal temp approx 100.-101.)
- His airway will swell and his throat become full of white foam (because of the panting)
- He will quickly become exhausted and will fighting for breath
- He could die

How to prevent overheating:
- Do not allow your bulldog to lay out in the daytime sunshine
- Do not walk your bulldog in hot weather
- During hot weather keep your bulldog inside during the hottest part of the day

How to deal with overheating:
- Lower his body temperature: 
Always ensure that you have ice to hand during the summer months. 
Pour cold water over your dog, especially around his head, rub ice 
around his head and under his tail (around his rectum). 
If possible stand him in a cold bath and keep going with the ice until the 
breathing is less labored.
- Clear the airway: Squirt some lemon juice (from one of those plastic lemon 
shaped bottles that you squirt )
into the back of his throat, he will hate you for it, but the lemon juice will quickly 
break up the excess foam and clear the throat. 
Do not allow him to drink a lot of water as this can cause him to vomit.
- Keep him calm: Once you have reduced his panic keep him in a quiet place and 
keep a close eye on him. Talk to him with a soft voice.
- If this doesn’t work then you need to get to a vet as quickly as 
possible - put a cold damp towel under him for the journey

The first thing that needs to be understood is that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross lines. 
I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people other
than what I learned in first aid.

Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru exercise to make a
difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke thephysiology
changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that point
is futile, they need IV and lots of it.

Cooling: Evaporative cooling is the most efficient mean of cooling.
However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will not evaporate so
cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I can
find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to
run water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact.
When you immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat
will get warm next to the dog, and act as an insulator against the
cool water and cooling stops. If you can run water over the dog and
place it in front of a fan that is the best. Misting the dog with
water will only help if you are in a dry environment or in front of
a fan. Just getting the dog wet is not the point, you want the water
to be cool itself, or to evaporate.

For MOST situations all you will need to do is get the dog in a
cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with the
air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat
and the AC is more efficient). Up to a couple of years ago, I was
very concerned about my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black
pickup with a black cap. New white truck fixed a lot of that
problem. When I had one dog I just pulled the wire crate out of the
car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But having
2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible.
So I built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises
the dog up in the truck box where the air flow is better. Then I
placed a 3 speed box fan in front blowing on the dogs with a foot of
space to allow better airflow. I purchased a power inverter that
connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed fan to run from the
truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it from
draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find
that the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very
relaxed and comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on
very hot muggy days.

Alcohol: I do carry it for emergencies. It is very effective at
cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when other
methods are not working. You should be on your way to the
veterinarian before you get to this point. We recommend using
rubbing alcohol, which is isopropyl alcohol, not ethyl, for those of
you not aware. So do not try to drink it. Alcohol
should be used on the pads and lower feet area where there is little
more than skin and blood vessels over the bones. Use a little bit
and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is absorbed
through the skin. There are concerns about toxicity, but you have to
get the temperature down.

***** UPDATE NOTE-alcohol has fallen out of favor with ER
specialists, use it only as a last ditch effort if nothing else

I purchased those cooling pads, but found that the dogs would not
lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that just worked
to get a quick cool, but have not use them for years. I also bought
a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend
your money on the power inverter and get a real fan.

Watching temperature: If you feel your dog is in danger of heat
injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the temp
every 3 minutes. I recommend getting a "rectal glass thermometer.
The digital ones for the drugstore I have found to be very
unreliable, Don't forget to shake it down completely each time,
sounds silly, but when are worried about your companion, things
tend to get mixed up. This is VERY IMPORTANT**once the temp STARTS
to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling process will continue
even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at 106.5, and then
next time it drops to 105.5, stop cooling the dog, dry it off, and
continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down.
If you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too
low. I cannot emphasize this point enough.

When the dog is so heated that it is panting severely, only let it
have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not cool the
dog; you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more
effective. Do not worry about dehydration until the temp has started
down. A dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is at
risk of bloat. Due to the heavy panting they will swallow air, mixed
with a large amount of water they can bloat. Once the temp is going
down and panting has slowed to more normal panting then
allow water. The dog will re-hydrate it self after temp is normal.
If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the
temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids
and some medication. Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case
of hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (not parvo),
with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of fluid and
electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment.

The best method of treatment is prevention. Learn to watch your dog,
and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and how quickly it
goes down. Learn your dogs' response to the different environments,
and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test or
trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours
away, but the difference in temp and humidity did affect the dogs as
they were used to more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things
in training to help the dog cool and learn what works better.
Another very important point==> Do not swim your hot dog to cool
it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember, evaporation can
not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a sauna
and you will cook your dog. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog
cool and dry before putting it up.

I know this is a bit long, but hopefully this is easy to understand
and helps provide some useful information.

Remember: Prevention, learn your dog. It is worth the time and
effort.
____________ 
Nate Baxter, DVM
Lebanon, OH

Care of your Bulldog Pup
Bringing Your Puppy Home (Or things you need to know about Bulldog care)

When you get your puppy, you should also receive from the breeder: 
either the puppy's Registration Certificate
or its Application for Registration ; a copy of its pedigree; a record of its immunizations 
(exactly what shots and when given) and wormings; assurance that the puppy has been 
examined by a veterinarian and the name and telephone number of the veterinarian. 
If you do not receive one of these items you should get a written, dated and signed statement 
from the breeder stating when you will receive that item or why you will not.

You may also receive: a sales contract
(if the puppy is sold on a Limited Registration you should 
received a sales contract which includes the terms, 
if any, under which the breeder will lift that restriction); 
a health certificate from the puppy's veterinarian; written care instructions; 
a supply of the food the puppy eats. You may even be given the puppy's favorite toy.

When you arrive home with your puppy, remember - your puppy is a baby Bulldog. 
Like all babies, he needs lots of love and cuddling, lots of rest and sleep, 
lots of love and cuddling,
lots of good, nourishing food and more love and cuddling :-)

Moving to a new home, leaving his dam and litter mates and the only 
humans he has ever 
really known is a very traumatic experience for the puppy, 
so try to make the move as easy as possible for him. 
For the first couple of weeks, try to change his life as little as possible.

Follow the breeders feeding routine. 
The same times, the same amount, the same brand of food, the same 
supplements. 
Feed him in the same place at each meal. 
Be sure he has a special area all his own for his bed. 
Give him lots and lots of cuddling and petting. 
Do not let him play so long and hard that he becomes exhausted.

Sometime during the first week, you should take him to your veterinarian
for a check up and get to know you visit.
Remember to take along the record of his immunizations and wormings 
and a stool sample, if possible.

Once the puppy is settled securely into his new home, you can begin to 
introduce him to your way of doing things.

If you want to change the brand of puppy kibble he is eating,
the change should be slow and gradual.
Substitute a small amount of the old food with the new brand and slowly increase
the ratio of new to old until the old brand is completely replaced with the new.
Make sure whatever you feed is naturally preserved, and NO SOY. 
It's best if you find a food without
corn as well, as corn is known to cause allergies.
There are several brands on the market that have these properties, such as:
Canidae, Innova, Chicken Soup For The Pet Lovers Soul. 
 
 

A rocking chair or a really comfortable big chair you can sit in and
cuddle your new Bulldog puppy.

A food dish with straight sides and flat bottom. 
The best material is stainless steel - avoid plastic.
Since Bulldogs like to stick their face in everything, it is best 
to stay away from any porous food bowls
as they can harbor bacteria and cause the bulldog's face to break out.

A water dish, stainless steel is best.

A collar and a lead. A light weight, small link "choke" collar is best.
It should be long enough to slip over
the pup's head with room to spare but should not have more than a six inch "tail" 
when around his neck. His first lead should be a light weight one, 
you'll need a strong leather lead as he grows.

Nail clippers or grinder.
Dremel grinders work very well and can be purchased at Wal-Mart,
Lowes and most any type of large merchandiser.

There are several things which will make life easier and more enjoyable for you and your Bulldog.

First in importance is a wire crate. This comes very close to being a necessity. 
It is much easier to house train a puppy if he sleeps in a crate.
If you travel at all with your dog, he is safer and happier riding in a crate and if you are
staying overnight he has a place of his own to sleep in. 
It is just as important for your dog to be in a crate in the car as it is for 
you to wear your seat belt. If you do not have a crate, 
or one won't fit in your car, get him a dog safety car harness. 
Bulldogs do better in wire crates than the Veri-Kennel type
because the air circulation through the wire crates is so much better.
Dogs like to have a special "my place" so If you don't have a
crate, try one, you and your Bulldog will like it.
The 36 inch long wire crate is a good size. Just remember to 
buy a divider for it and move it back as your pup grows.
 

A grooming table makes brushing, toe nail cutting, whisker clipping, medication, etc. 
etc. much easier. Start the pup out young and he'll soon learn to stand still 
with his neck in the noose and your grooming time will be much happier for you both:-)

A puppy pen. Even though you have a fenced yard, you may want to confine the puppy 
to or out of a particular area. Puppy pens are easily portable and very handy for 
keeping a puppy confined to a small area. They are especially useful for a winter puppy.
You can put his bed in his crate, put the crate in a puppy pen, 
and put his papers in a corner of the pen.

If you plan to exhibit your Bulldog you will need a pair of whisker scissors. 
These are small, sharp, blunt end scissors which you can purchase from a pet store, 
a dog show vendor or a dog supply catalogue.

A good brush. You can use almost any brush on a Bulldog but the best ones have 
flexible rubber bristles. 
You want one small enough to fit your hand comfortably.

If you travel with your Bulldog you'll need a large insulated water jug so 
that you'll have "home" water available for him.
A small water pan that hooks to the side of his crate is handy.

Vaseline.Use this on his nose, on his eye wrinkles, any place you need to 
soothe and waterproof but don't need to medicate. 
Use it also on the thermometer when you take his temperature.

Plastic RealLemon. If he gets phlegm in his throat and chokes on it, a couple squirts
of juice from the plastic lemon will help clear it out.He'll think he is 
being abused but will thank you for it later:-)
Just remember to be careful not to squirt any in his eyes.

A good rectal thermometer.

Clear Eyes, Duolube,etc. for irritated eyes

Aspirin. For minor aches and pains. 
Most Bulldogs can tolerate aspirin but do not give any other human pain reliever such as Tylenol or Advil.
Buffered aspirin such as Bufferin is better than plain aspirin and Ascriptin is better than Bufferin. 
Remember that the dosage for aspirin, like most pain relief medication, is based primarily on body weight.
A Bulldog should never be given more than one tablet at a time or more frequently than every twelve hours.
Some Bulldogs are allergic to aspirin, so use with care.

Benadryl. Either capsule or liquid. Use this if the dog is stung by a bee or other insect, 
and for minor allergies.

Panalog Ointment.A good all purpose ointment for minor skin afflictions. 
Also good for cleaning wrinkles, tail pockets and ears. Do not put in his eyes.
Buy it by the case! :-)

Bag Balm. Also useful for minor skin afflictions.

PeptoBismol.For minor stomach upset.You can use the generic of this as well. 
My bulldogs prefer the chewable
as I can pop them in their mouth. It's a big mess trying to clean up spit out 
liquid Peptol Bismol..and believe me, they can spew it out in a hurry!

Kaopectate. For minor diarrhea.

Q-tips. Use for applying medication.

Cotton balls.Use for applying medication, for cleaning and to keep ears dry while bathing.

Neverever give your Bulldog a rawhide toy. Even Bulldog puppies can tear a piece 
off the rawhide and choke on it.
The same with chew hooves and ANY plastic toy. Bulldogs can destroy these 
quickly and swallow the shards.
 

Puppies like knotted socks to shake and play tug of war with. 
They also like Nylabone and Gummabone toys. 
Many like to play with balls, but be sure the ball is too big to
lodge in the throat, and not made of soft rubber or anything they can  if they rip it up.
They like cotton tug toys like Booda Bones. 
The only real difference between the toys for a puppy and the toys for an adult Bulldog is size.
The puppy gets a fairly small Gummabone, the adult gets a big one. 
Just be sure the toy is too big to swallow. 
Throw a Nyla or Gumabone etc. away before it gets so small the 
dog can get the entire piece in its mouth.
Kongs are also a good toy. Most pet stores carry what they call hard 
rubber indestructable toys.

A Bulldog should eat out of a pan which has a flat bottom and straight sides. 
Most Bulldoggers use stainless steel because it lasts longer and more hygenic and easier to disinfect. 
DO NOT use plastic either for his food or his water.

Most breeders feed a two to four month old puppy four times a day. 
At this age, the kibble is usually softened with warm water. 
Some add cottage cheese and/or yogurt. There are several good brands of puppy kibble. 
If you are not satisfied with the kibble he is eating, try another. 
You want a kibble the puppy likes and which produces a nice coat, 
keeps the puppy round but not obese, and produces solid stools. 
Many breeders feed Nutro Natural, Innova, Canidae, Chicken Soup For The Pet Lovers Soul. 
Check the list of ingredients on the sack. 
The first 5 ingredients are what your dog is really eating.
Do not feed your Bulldog a kibble which contains soy and try and stay away from corn.
Corn causes allergies in many dogs and only causes the dog to get fat.

You may feed the puppy on a set schedule, or have food available to him at all times. 
The pup will flourish under either regimen. The choice depends on 
which is more convenient for you.
But it is much easier to housebreak a pup if you feed him at set times 
and not free-feed him.

How much you feed him depends on the puppy.
In most cases, a growing puppy which gets sufficient exercise should 
eat as much as it wants. 
If the puppy does become obese, you may need to regulate the amount he eats,
but do not put a growing puppy on a severely restricted diet unless it is 
supervised by a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about Bulldog puppies.

From four to six months a puppy's feeding regimen should remain 
the same but the number of feedings may be reduced to three. 
At about six months this number can be reduced to two. In most cases continue 
feeding the puppy as much as he wants.

How often you feed a dog a year or more old depends on your preference and the dog's. 
Most dogs do well on one meal a day. Some do better on two meals a day. 
You may prefer to feed in the morning or the evening. This is up to you.
If you like it and the dog likes it, it's the right way.

A Bulldog usually eats puppy kibble until it is at least a year old. 
If he is thriving on puppy kibble, leave him on it until he is at least two years old. 
You can feed him puppy kibble all his life, if it agrees with him. 
Most Bulldogs are changed from puppy to adult kibble at around twelve to eighteen months. 
The best change is to the adult version of the puppy kibble you have been feeding him. 
It does not hurt your Bulldog to change from one brand of dog food 
to another and then to another and so on as 
long as each change is done by gradually, substituting more and
more of the new brand for the old.

If your Bulldog is spayed or neutered or as it ages and becomes less active, 
you may need to start feeding a reduced calorie dog food to keep it from becoming too fat. 
Most good brands of dog food have such a kibble. 
Again, it's best if you stay with the same brand you've been feeding and 
change to the "lo-fat" version.

Whatever its age, your Bulldog should have fresh water available at all times.

It is not really necessary to add to a good kibble. 
But you may find your dog prefers "goodies" on his food, or does a little better with some. 
The most common supplements are cottage cheese, yogurt and oil. 
Cottage cheese is especially good for growing puppies since the Bulldog 
must grow a lot of heavy bone in a short time.
About a tablespoon per feeding. Yogurt helps to keep the digestive system 
working well, about a teaspoon per feeding. 
Oil helps to keep the coat and skin in good condition, about a teaspoon twice a day.
Canola oil is best - do not give your Bulldog any oil which contains soybean oil.
Sprinkling a little Parmesean chesse over the food will often time entice your dog to eat.

You may also give your Bulldog a vitamin supplement. 
Any good vitamin tablet such as Vita-Tabs, Theralin, etc. Do not over dose.
If the directions say "one a day", two is not better. You may also give a 
vitamin C tablet 100 - 500 units per day. 
Supplements to be very careful about are Vitamins E, D and A. 
Overdoses of these can cause trouble. 
Also be very cautious about adding more calcium than what about a 
quarter cup of cottage cheese per day adds to what is in the kibble.
If you plan to breed a bitch, vitamin C and B complex, including folic acid, 
is recommended, but again be careful not to overdo it. 
Iron supplements should be given with care and caution.

Treats should usually be dog biscuits. 
It won't hurt your Bulldog to give him an occasional bite of meat, vegetables,
fruit, soda crackers, ice cream, etc. 
But do not give him chocolate or onions. Beans aren't a real good idea either.:-)))

Your Bulldog should be thoroughly brushed at least three times a week. 
Most Bulldogs love to be brushed. 
Use a soft bristle or rubber brush. Start at the rear and brush against the hair. 
After you've brushed the entire dog against the grain, brush it with the grain. 
Follow this with a good rub down. 
This will keep his hair shiny and his skin healthy. During shedding time, spring and fall, 
you may need to brush more often, 
give more frequent rubdowns. The idea is to remove the dead hair and distribute the natural oils.

A Bulldog that receives frequent brushings and rubdowns does not need frequent bathing. 
Most Bulldoggers bathe their dogs when the dog is dirty - when it obviously needs a bath. 
Of course, if you are exhibiting your Bulldog he needs a bath before he goes to the show. 
A show dog should be a squeaky clean dog in the ring.

Where do you bathe a Bulldog? Any place you want to and can! 
Some Bulldoggers have a big deep sink, some use the bath tub, some use the kitchen sink, 
in the summer some wash the dog on the lawn. 
You need a place where you can control the dog, where you can easily control the water supply 
and where you can rinse the dog thoroughly. It's a good idea, especially with a puppy,
to take the dog 
outside to "do his thing" just before you bathe him.

Gather up all the things you will need before you start. You will need: shampoo, 
any rinses you plan to use, 
cotton balls, Q-tips, eye ointment or mineral oil, Vaseline, wash cloth, towels. 
You will want a mild, no tears shampoo. Most Bulldoggers use a dog shampoo 
such as Lambert Kay or Groom-Rite. 
Some use a baby shampoo such as Johnson & Johnson No Tears or Avon Tearless. 
Most use a special whitening shampoo for white dogs (Lambert Kay Snowy-Coat, 
Bio Groom Super White, etc.). 
Many use a special shampoo for red dogs (Ring S Burnished Bronze, etc.). 
You may on occasion need to use a flea shampoo but since these are quite harsh, 
don't use one unless you really need to.

Put a couple of drops of mineral oil or a bit of eye ointment in the eyes and 
place a cotton ball securely in each ear before you wet the dog.
Wet the dog thoroughly from just behind the ears to the tips of the toes on his hind feet. 
Be sure his underside is wet, too, not just the top and sides. Apply the 
shampoo starting at his neck and working back. 
Work the shampoo in to be sure you get all the way through his hair to the skin. 
Pay special attention to his paws (wash between the toes), his tail 
(clean all around the base), and the genital area. 
On a bitch, be especially careful to clean the vulva. 
Wet the wash cloth and use it to dampen the dog's face and ears. 
Put some shampoo on the washcloth and wash the dog's face. 
Wash the wrinkles (and inside them)over the nose,on the 
forehead, around the nose and under the eyes.
Wash his nose. Wash his ears, inside and out. 
Now rinse. Rinse until you are sure every bit of the dog, especially in the wrinkles and tight places, 
is thoroughly rinsed and there is no shampoo any place.
If you are applying a rinse, do it now, following the instructions. 
You can use a dog conditioner rinse like Oster Creme Rinse, 
Oster Coat Conditioner or Francodex Oatmeal Creme Rinse,
or you can use a "people" conditioner like L'Oreal Creme. 
For a white dog, you can use a rinse of 4 Tbs. Mrs. Wright's Bluing, 
1 qt. water, 1/4 cup baking soda. Mix enough bluing into the water to get a darkish blue (not black). 
Pour the bluing mixture over him and work in with your fingertips. Do not rinse. Do not towel dry.
Let the dog drip dry. For red dogs, try VOS Henna Conditioner.

Dry the dog with towels. Take the cotton balls out of the dog's ears and clean any wax 
carefully using a dry cotton ball or one with a dab of Panalog. 
Rub a dab of Vaseline onto his nose to help keep it soft.(Keep it out of his nostrils)
You can then let him air dry or use a hair dryer to finish the drying. 
It's best to keep the dog inside until it is completely dry - about two hours.

Most Bulldogs need their toe nails cut on a regular basis - about every two weeks. 
The nails should be kept as short as possible. 
You may use dog nail clippers or an electric grinder. 
Many Bulldoggers use the clippers, either guillotine or scissors type.
Which type you use is up to you, but they should be sharp. When the blade begins to dull, 
replace it or buy new clippers - dull blades can be painful to the dog.

Each Bulldogger seems to have a different way to clip nails. 
Find the way that works best for you. 
The important thing is to be able to control the dog so that you do not hurt it. 
A grooming table is probably the best way. You can put the dog 
on the floor and scratch its tummy,
or hold it between your legs - whatever works. Be especially 
careful not to cut into the quick. 
On white nails you can see where the quick begins. 
On black nails cut just to the curve of the nail. 
The clippers usually leave a rough edge. Use a good dog nail file to smooth them off. 
If you use an electric grinder, be very, very careful. It is easy to grind into the quick.

The main thing is to make the experience as pleasant as possible for the dog so
be really careful when cutting nails and don't cut into the quick.
If you dog takes frequent walks on pavement or such, it will usually wear the nails down, 
so again, be careful as there may not be very much nail to cut. 
This is especially true of black nails which seem to wear more than the white ones.

Bulldogs tend to have messy face wrinkles. The older they get, the messier the wrinkles. 
How often you clean these wrinkles depends on the dog. 
Some do very well if you clean the wrinkles a couple of times a week. 
Some need it on a daily basis. When you clean the wrinkles, wash his nose and apply a 
good rub of Vaseline to keep it soft. 
It's better to clean more often than you think you need to than not often enough.
You can clean the wrinkles with a soft, damp cloth and then dry. Or you can wash them using a 
medicated shampoo such as SulfOxyDex. This can be purchased from your vet or 
at some pet suppy stores and catalogs.
Be sure to rinse and dry thoroughly. 
One of the best ways is to wipe the wrinkles clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe. 
Whatever method you use, be sure to get the deep nose wrinkle clean. 
You may need to put a soothing ointment in the deep nose wrinkle.
If it is irritated Panalog will help to heal. 
as will the SulfOxyDex.
Diaparene Ointment will soothe and dry the wrinkle. 
This contains zinc oxide, so before you apply it, rub Vaseline into the dog's nose. 
You will almost see a sizable number of Bulldogs have "tear stains" of varying degrees of color. 
If the stain is bad, in addition to cleaning you may want to try to remove the stain.
There are many treatments, you may have to try several before you find one that works for you. 
Some of the commercial products used are Showes "Pretty Eyes" Stain remover, 
Bio-Groom cream (to prevent re-staining) and Diamond Eye. 
You can make a paste of 1 Tbs. Hydrogen Peroxide and enough corn starch to make a thin paste 
(some Bulldoggers add I Tbs. Milk of Magnesia to the hydrogen 
peroxide and mix the cornstarch into that mixture). 
Apply to the stain, let dry, brush off excess. Apply on a daily basis until the stain in gone,
then weekly to keep stain from returning. 
Another method is to rub the stain with a cotton ball soaked in Boric Acid. 
Daily until the stain is gone, then weekly.
Or use NM Boric Acid ointment (10%) which can be purchased at 
Payless or most any drug store. 
Another remedy is rubbing a dab of Desitin into the stain to help dry it
And also use the SulfOxyDex, which is a shampoo of Benzoyl Peroxide and Sulfur.

The best way to treat fleas is to prevent them. 
Some dogs are allergic to flea saliva and can develop really serious skin problems
so try to keep the flea population to a minimum. 
If you do get a bad flea infestation you may need to "bomb" your house or kennel, 
spray the yard and/or dog runs.
Frequent brushing is the first defense. 
Frequently changed bedding is very important. 
Flea collars are not very effective and many Bulldogs cannot wear them. 
If you do use one, do not put one on a wet or damp dog and do not allow the 
dog to wear a wet collar 
(this includes letting the dog out in the rain with its flea collar on).

You may need to give the dog a bath with a good flea shampoo or use an 
anti-flea rinse when you bathe
. The chemicals used in these shampoos are harsh so use them only when necessary
and follow instructions carefully.
Mycodex is probably the most used flea control shampoo.
There are various types of dips, such as Adams 14 Day Flea Dip, and sprays, 
such as Escort Flea & Tick Spray 
and Mycodex Aqua-Spray. Since these really are medications, it's a good idea to at least begin
with ones from your veterinarian or that have been specifically recommended 
by an experienced Bulldogger in your area.
Avon Skin so Soft mixed in the rinse water is an effective, non-irritating flea 
deterrent used by several Bulldoggers.
You can also use the Skin so Soft mixed with an equal part of water in a spray bottle, or,
if you feel that's a bit too strong, try two capfuls in a pint spray bottle. 
This is also reported to repel mosquitoes and ticks. 
Above all else, a clean environment, especially his bed, is the best flea prevention.
Advantage and Advanticks are both good anti flea preventatives. 
Many vets prefer to use this than Frontline on Bulldogs.
I have seen all used and the Advantage appears to be the safest.

The most common is cotton rugs or blankets which can be washed with ease. 
Don't pamper your Bulldog with a wicker dog bed. He will thoroughly enjoy 
reducing it to twigs and it really isn't a good thing for him to eat. 
The fake sheepskin rugs available from most pet stores and dog catalogues make good beds 
as they are soft and wash and dry with ease. 
The important thing for bedding is that it be easily washable and provide
a soft nesting area for the dog. 
As long as it meets that requirement, any bedding will do.
I have found the best beds/pads for Bulldogs are the Slumber Pet Fleece 
pet beds sold by Pet Edge. 
These are cozy, soft and the edges are padded amd can thrown in the wash and machine dried.
I have used them for quite some time and not one of the dogs have tried to "eat" it or destroy it.

"House" training

The key here is consistency. Take the pup outside, preferably to the same 
area each time, as soon as he wakes up, 
about ten minutes after each meal, about every hour when he's awake, 
just before his nap or night bedtime. 
The puppy must empty bladder and bowels before he goes to bed for the night. 
Always praise the puppy as he is going, and move away from the area as soon as he is finished. 
Very few dogs will soil their beds, so it is best to keep him confined at night and 
any time you cannot watch him.
If you see the pup "hunting" (sniffing and circling) take him outside immediately. 
If you see him urinating or defecating in the house, say "NO, NO" and 
take him outside at once.
Do not scold him unless you catch him in the act. 
Praise for correct behavior works much better than punishment for "incorrect" behavior. 
Remember, a puppy is a baby, his capacity is small, his muscle control limited. 
Be consistent, be patient, and you will succeed in training him to go outside not inside.

Lead training

The earlier you start the better, but if your puppy has not had any lead training 
before you get him, 
wait a week or so until he's settled comfortably into his new home before you begin.

You will need a light weight "choke chain" collar and a light weight lead.
The collar should be long enough to slip over his head with ease and have some room for growth, 
but should not be more than six inches longer than the circumference of his neck. 
Put the collar on the puppy so that it goes over his neck from his left to right. 
Fasten the lead to the collar and let the puppy lead you around. 
If he doesn't move, move a bit and coax him to move after you. 
Do not ever pull on the lead and drag or choke the puppy.
This should be a happy experience for the puppy so give him lots of praise. As 
he becomes used to walking about with the collar and lead, begin to give little tugs and encourage
him to follow you rather than you following him. Always keep him on your right side. 
Keep his lessons short. Several five to ten minutes sessions a day are better than one 
half hour session. 
Do not play with the puppy during his lesson, but do praise him often when he follows you.

Once he is following you with consistency you can begin taking him on walks around the 
neighborhood. 
You will probably need to give him several gently tugs the first few 
times to keep him with you rather than 
exploring on his own. You may need to stop and talk to him a few times. 
Again, do not pull on the lead and drag or choke him. 
A quick jerk and immediate release on the collar is the way to control him. 
Do not try to rush this. A few minutes a day, every day, lots of praise when he does it right, 
a quick jerk and release to correct when he doesn't, lots of praise, patience and consistency and 
he will soon be walking nicely at your side. 
If you plan to exhibit your puppy, you will also need to train him to 
stand still and let you hold his head. 
Start this training along with the lead training as early as possible.

The second best medical advice any one can give you is, 
"Find a veterinarian who knows and likes Bulldogs." 
This is one of the reasons why it's a good idea to join your local Bulldog Specialty Club. 
The members can usually refer you to a veterinarian 
who is familiar with Bulldogs and who likes them. Believe it or not - some veterinarians 
don't like Bulldogs, and no matter how good a veterinarian is, 
he's not a good one for your Bulldog. 
If you don't live in an area, like me, who has a Bulldog club close by, 
then join Bulldog email lists, and ask questions. Do a search on Google for
breeders in your area and contact them about bulldog vets.
 

The very best advice is to know your Bulldog. Check the entire dog daily. 
Know if he isn't eating, if he isn't playing, if he doesn't seem quite right. 
Know immediately if something is wrong so you can take appropriate action.

There are several minor ailments you can treat at home. 
Remember that if a home remedy doesn't cure the problem in two days,
it's time to take the dog to the veterinarian. 
Do not keep trying various methods of home medication.

Liquid Medications

The easiest way to give a liquid medication is with a syringe. 
You can get them from your veterinarian or most drug stores. 
You want at least a 10cc size. Discard the needle. Pull the proper amount of liquid into the syringe, 
open the dog's mouth and "shoot" the liquid onto the back of his tongue.

Pills and capsules

Open the dog's mouth, push the pill or capsule as far down his throat as possible,
then hold his mouth shut and stroke his throat until he swallows.
This has been known to work, if you are lucky..
 Or wrap the pill or capsule in a bit of ground beef or cheese and 
feed it to the dog. This usually works.

Vomiting

For minor upset stomach Pepto Bismol or a similar medicine works best.
Dose is according to the dog's weight. If there is hard vomiting or if the upset lasts
more than 24 hours, take the dog to your veterinarian.

Diarrhea

Kaopektate is most usually prescribed for minor diarrhea. 
Dose amount depends on the dog's weight. 
If the diarrhea continues longer than 24 hours or if there is 
blood in the stool, take the dog to the veterinarian.

Hot Spots

These are red, weepy, itchy spots. No one seems to really know what causes them.
It could be fleas, food, allergies, etc. Clean the area thoroughly. 
You can wash with shampoo, rinse and dry. Or clean with Baby Wipes with lanolin and aloe.
Or wash with Bigeloil. Then apply a medications such as Panalog, Bag Balm, Sulfadene, 
Schreiner's Healing Liniment (from a feed store) or 1% cortisone cream 
(you may need to get this from your own doctor). Clean and apply medication daily. 
You should see improvement by the second day, if not, take the dog to the veterinarian.

Interdigital Cysts

This is another problem that no one seems to be sure what the cause is.. But you'll know one 
when you see an angry red swelling pop up between the dog's toes. 
First examine the paw carefully, especially the underside between the pads to be sure there 
is no foreign matter (a thorn or such). If there is, take it out. Clean the area.
Remedies include: (I) Soaking the paw in warm water and 
Epsom Salts or Massengale Douche solution, 
dry and rub in Panalog. (2) Desenex foot powder. (3) ,Preparation H. 
(4) Division 5 Bulletin formula. Have your veterinarian make this up 
for you One part 60% DMSO, 
one part Gentavet solution 50 mg. per ml. Apply one drop per day; rub in with
a Q Tip. Do NOT use more than one drop, do NOT apply more frequently than 
once a day. If you start application at the first sign, this solution will prevent the cyst 
from developing. With all these treatments, it's best to continue the 
treatment for two to three days after the cyst is gone.

Fungus Spots

These are somewhat like hot spots, but they are not weepy.
Be sure you clean away all the "scabby" material. 
Wash the area and treat with Panalog, Keflex, or any good anti-fungal ointment. 
You can use Demorex shampoo or a sulfur based soap such as SulfOxyDex, for the washing.

Facial Acne or Eczema

Bulldogs are forever putting their faces into all kinds of strange places. 
Some are susceptible to topical bacterial infections. The dog gets pimples on his face and chin. 
Usually you can clear these up just by washing and rubbing in an anti-biotic ointment. 
Or you can try OXYIO (benzoil peroxide) which you can purchase at a drug store. Or use
SulfOxyDex.
If they persist, you will need to get an oral anti-biotic medication from your veterinarian.
A Staph infection can quickly set in so keep an eye on your bulldogs' face.

Eyes

Dust, wind, pollen, the things that make your eyes burn and water have the same
effect on your Bulldog. You can rinse the eyes out with a solution such as Clear Eyes. 
If the eyes are badly irritated, use a contact lens ointment such as Bausch & Lomb Duolube.
For any other eye ailment, take the dog to your veterinarian.

Cherry Eye

The gland which normally resides under the lower eye lid at the inside corner 
of the eye will sometimes "pop" out. This is not as horrible as it appears to be
and does not require emergency 
treatment. It does require treatment at the earliest possible time by a
veterinarian recommended for "Cherry Eyes". 
The quicker the dog gets treatment the better the chance for successful treatment
without removing the gland. Removal of the gland often results in a "dry" eye.

Tail

Some Bulldog's have their tail set in a pocket. 
If yours does you will need to make a special effort to keep that pocket clean and dry.
Wipe it out frequently. You may need to use cotton balls rather than a wash cloth if the pocket is tight.
Be sure to dry it thoroughly and apply an ointment such as Panalog, 
or a drying powder such as Gold Bond.

Temperature

You take his temperature just as you take a small baby's - rectally. 
Use a good rectal thermometer, lubricate generously with Vaseline, insert gently, 
hold onto the thermometer
dogs have been known to "suck" them in!, wait about five minutes,
pull out and read. Normal temperature for most dogs is from 100.5 to 101.

Ice

Start giving your Bulldog pieces of ice to eat when he is still a small puppy
so that he learns to like it. Luckily, most Bulldogs do. 
This is a great way to cool down a hot dog. 
Blocks of ice make a great summer time toy. 
A pan of ice in or on top of his crate helps keep him cool.

Insect Stings

If your Bulldog is stung by a bee or other insect,
give him Benadryl (either capsule or liquid) and watch him closely for the next half hour. 
You may also apply an ice pack to the area where he was stung if you know where it is.
If the area around the sting swells and hardens, if hives appear, if he seems to have difficulty breathing -
rush him to the veterinarian. This is no time to dally, your dog's life depends on quick treatment.